Newhaven, Granton

Newhaven is a greatly underrated village in the city. Though its fishing days are long past, it retains a picturesque harbour and a new free museum with lots interactive and dressing up things. Some of the village with its characteristic alleys and stairs up to first floor front doors remains despite the ravages of 60's house build. The famous Newhaven Fishwives used to wear distinctive Flemish caps, brightly coloured waistcoats and aprons and distinctive spotted kerchiefs. They carried impossibly large creels (baskets) to markets in the city. The tradition is still kept and there is a fishwives choir. As with many seafaring places, it is full of traditions and superstitions - don't whistle or sing 'Danny Boy', I'm told, or pass a nun on the way to the boat. The famous Masons Pies are made here, and new additions include a Harry Ramsdens and a bar/restaurant with a kids play area out by the breakwater.

Granton also has a harbour but is more industrial. You can still see the grandeur that used to be Granton Square and it is time something was done to restore it, perhaps as part of the new waterfront development plan.

The Anchor Inn
114, West Granton Rd
EH5 1PF 0131 552 4501
A rough reputation of old but this remains a busy locals bar and has survived the closure or contraction of industries like the Gas Works, Parsons Peebles and United Wire.

The Bow Tow
14, Newhaven Main St
EH6 4TA 0131 552 0646
A pub with character in one of the older and more original buildings in this ancient fishing village. Exudes a warm welcoming glow in the quiet street.

The Lobster Pot
Craighall Rd EH6 4RR
0131 552 2914
A cosy locals bar in a quiet residential area next to Trinity Academy in on the site of the old railway station.

Newhaven Inn
74-76, Newhaven Rd
EH6 5QG
0131 478 7621

Old Chain Pier Bar - Website
32 Trinity Crescent
EH5 3ED 0131 552 1233
A totally rebuilt bar jutting out into the Forth where the old Old Chain Pier was, dating from 1898 when the Chain Pier ticket office was converted.

The new pub - one of CAMRA Pubs of the Year 2001 - has good beers and food, a conservatory type balcony looking out across to Fife and a maritime feel. The old pub was a legend run by Betty Moss. Though far from today's pub, Betty's days must be mentioned. She of indeterminate age wore square bamboo framed glasses and electric blue kimono cum kaftan. The bar served Campbell Hope and Kings out of most taps, but was called lager if that's what you asked for. The walls and ceilings were festooned with beer mats and business cards and a multicolored plastic ribbon curtain led to a small 'select'. It too had a balcony, rickety wooden spars that took some nerve. Closing time was fun as Betty waved a sword or brandished mock (we hope) firearms - ah such fun.

The Peacock Inn
Pier Place/Newhaven High St
EH6 0131 552 8707
Strictly speaking a hotel but a charm not to be missed. Restaurant and bar (children ok), great fish and generally good value food.

Spiers Bar
10 Bowhill Terrace
EH3 5QY 0131 552 4849
Always highly spoken of over the years, this traditional pub at Goldenacre lost a bit of its charm in a refurbishment in the 80's but still has a local and comfortable feel.

Starbank
64, Laverockbank Rd
EH5 3BZ 0131 552 4141
Across the road from the Old Chain Pier, the Starbank faces over the Forth and backs onto one of Edinburgh's most select areas. Built up a strong reputation for good real ales. Next to Starbank park where we used to roll Easter eggs.